immobiliser light

[David59]

Hello
I'm just trying to dig deeper into my non starting problem.
Could anyone tell me when the immobiliser light should be on
Currently not flashing with key out or inserted
Not on in Acc position
Flashes at Ign position and starting
Many thanks
David

[Cap]

The Immobilizer lite will be Flashing any time the 'Normal Powered ECU' is sitting and waiting for a Key to be registered..

When the Key Tip is Inserted into the Barrel, the ECU will be Powered up by the Switch in the key barrel, and Trigger the Key Read Sequence. If This Key Read Sequence Fails, it will revert back to Flashing
   If the Key Read was Successful, one of two Conditions are set .. 1..Its a Master Key, and the Lite Goes Out .. 2.. Its a Slave Key and the Lite Stayes on for about a Second, then goes out. Note:..  If the Key Tip Read Switch in the Barrel is Defective, the Key Read Sequence will be triggered Upon Turning the Key to On.

Back to your Scenario..  If the ECU is NOT Flashing the Lite ( Very Slowly ) while the Car is just Sitting, then you have a Blown B1 Fuse ( Maintain ECU Memory) and the ECU is not Powered up until you actually Turn the Key..

Cap

[Cap]

I just took a look at my Paper Copy of the ECU wiring Diagram.. 

I'm not seeing an Obvious Fuse Culprit, but I remember reading about this ~10 to 12 years ago on another Spyder..  His spyder kept loosing fuel trims when he would turn off the engine..  Took a while to chase that one down..

Check your Fuses in the Back..  Might be the 7.5 Amp..

Cap

 

[David59]

Hello Cap
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
This morning I taped the transponder on the key blade so there would be no delay in introducing the transponder to the coil..no luck

Fuse B1 is intact as are are all others.

I put a continuity tester on the terminal block leading from the key insertion micro switch in the barrel...it works.
I'm fearing an ECU fault but I can't think I've done anything to damage it this time

Carolyn on this forum kindly lent me a JDM ECU last time which worked and confirmed mine was fried so I bought one from a dismantler and again no problems until my stupidly busting my transponder coil.
Hope the weather is still sunny over there...it's not bad here today
David

[Cap]

David:..

The Parts store should have a 'Voltage Tester, Computer Safe'..  It's a Screwdriver with a Pointed End to Pierce the Wires ( I use it to go behind the ECU Sockett Pins to check for Voltage )..  the Other end of the 'Probe' is a Jumper wire you hook to Ground..

This is the Fastest way to check system circuits..

If you dive back behind the Cibbies, and get to the ECU..  I'm wanting to know if 1A Pin ( Batt) has power when your spyder is just sitting there key off..  No Key in the Ignition..

To Check that Hook the Probe Lead to Earth of the Chasis..  then Probe the pin in 1A of the ECU with it plugged into the ECU..  The Probe should be lit..  This says the ECU is actually being powered ( as it should be ) when the Battery is in the Car..

I'm trying to figure what the ECU is Upset about..

Good Luck.. 

Cap

[Carolyn]

I lack Cap's expertise on how the non-JDM ecu does its immobiliser tricks. However,the JDM ECU, not having an immobiliser function may have masked the initial problem. Whatever went 'pop' may not have been your ECU but something that affects the power supply to it???

[Cap]

I'm thinking so as well.. 

Now it's time for a Test Lite and a Wiring Diagram.. 

Cap

[David59]

Well, the car is running!!!
Cap...there was no power to AI on the ECU
Using the circuit diagram it identifies as you know a 15amp fuse
I was sure I'd checked all these as a matter of course but no, it was blown.
Together with your theory of immediately having the transponder next to the coil when the key is inserted means it started.

Did I short something whilst trying to fit a new transponder receiver?...maybe I'll never know but I'm going to keep a supply of 15 amp fuses in the car and always (as I should) disconnect the battery when fiddling with electrics .
Off to get a blank key cut now

As  always thank you to the help on this forum
Regards
David

[shnazzle]

Well, the car is running!!!
Cap...there was no power to AI on the ECU
Using the circuit diagram it identifies as you know a 15amp fuse
I was sure I'd checked all these as a matter of course but no, it was blown.
Together with your theory of immediately having the transponder next to the coil when the key is inserted means it started.

Did I short something whilst trying to fit a new transponder receiver?...maybe I'll never know but I'm going to keep a supply of 15 amp fuses in the car and always (as I should) disconnect the battery when fiddling with electrics .
Off to get a blank key cut now

As  always thank you to the help on this forum
Regards
David

We've all been there. I've blown ignition fuses when mistakenly unplugging a piggyback ECU without disconnecting battery. That could have ended badly. 

Live and learn  
Glad you're up and running

[Cap]

Yep, always recheck your work..

I'm glad you found it.. 

Cap