Project Custard - Gearbox issues

[custardavenger]

Just been out for a first shake down run. Cooling issue is sorted, little bit of work to do in the tuning department, IAV may need a look at as Idle is fast and unstable, but other than that it seams ok. Just letting it cool down and I'll start checking bolts.

Great to be back in it but long way to go still till its making it's full potential.

[muffdan]

congratulations Rob!   s:D s:D

[loadswine]

Well done Rob.  s:) s:)

[inert2k3]

Nice one Rob!   s:D s:D

[carl_evs]

Ok need some help!!!

I canot get hold of Carl_Evs who's brother is spraying my front bumper. Been trying everything I can to get hold of him but no joy. If anyone has any contact details for him other than mobile please PM me. I'm worried I may not make the WRA if I don't get the bumper back in time.

All sorted -I was the other side of the Iron Curtain on a job in Moscow and t'interneless......  s:( s:(

[E]

Excellent news Rob. All set now for the WRA then?

[custardavenger]

Cheersa guys

Excellent news Rob. All set now for the WRA then?

Well not 100% sure. looking good but there is still a couple of bodywork issues to sort out and I need to hope it keeps running.
I did have an issue with a leaky injector o ring, also the Innovate is playing up again and I think I may have started the process of emptying the sound deadening from my back box.

So there is just that and the tune being quite a way out and the idle being some what inconsistant.

But dam it's still good to drive.

So what now?

Well performance wise I need to do a rewire of the additional electrics so I can add the things coming up.
Install WI pump and tank and get some Dyno time in to set it up
Buy and fit a smaller battery
Make components for the CC system.
Buy another MAF bracket and the other intake components and get a new intake made with CC.
More dyno time.
If I have the cash then a better flowing exhaust manifold.

Then I think I'm as far as I can go with a stock engine and a C30-74 Rotrex, I then will look at building up my blown engine with some stronger internals. ANd saving for a bigger Rotrex.

Anyway enough of the pipe dream, need to get the little things finished off and get some bloody bracing done, I still have none!!

Driving it back to Nottingham today so will see how it does on the long run.

[custardavenger]

Aw bugger. Looks like the site I hosted my early pics on has died and been taken over by Ebaumsworld.com. Bugger.

Maybe when I have time I'll re-host them.

[Anonymous]

Looking great   s:D s:D

[custardavenger]

Cheers mate. Hoping to get the outside bits finished this weekend and then will post pics.

[philster_d]

Woot!

[northernalex]

glad to hear this is all coming together! nice one

[custardavenger]

So my car made it's first event this weekend. Yay. For those of you that didn't see it at WRA here it is



So good to be driving it around. But I still can't fully enjoy it. The map is a long way off and I still have alot of knock on the top end.

So big push to get as many mods finished before JAE. Currently I'm working on Bracing, Rear diffuser, a rewire of all the additional electrics and the WI system.
I have got the WI pump mounted so just need to get the tank made, wiring in and get it all set up.

Also looking at buying an odyssey battery and have just ordered some special paint.

Lastly. I'll be taking the yellow stuff pads out again when I get back home as I fitted them as per instructions using the supplied sticky rubber pads, That was a bad idea. they can't take the heat of the brakes and allow the pad to moove around too much. Not sure whether it's best to fit the stock shims, double side tape the backs of the pads and fit them with nothing or fit them with nothing at all. Opinions?

Edit put the wrong pic up.

[StuM]

Congrats so far Rob, that is looking great - the orange grill is a genius touch!   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:

[philster_d]

Its been like that ever since he ran over the tango guy

[custardavenger]

So been working on my map to get the AFR's a bit more realistic. And since I put my name down for a dyno day I thought I would try and deal with the Knock I have by pulling more timing. I did think that the knock was related to intake air temp but now I'm not so sure. Basicaly I've been pulling back the IGN timing loads and it's not helping. Currently pulled back to 9 and still seeing 100 basic knock at 5850rpm/13000, Air temp 39.

So I need help. Just how far back can I pull the ignition? Should I be making adjustments to the Igl map and if so what/how? Any other idead of what to try?
Please someone help!!!!!!

[muffdan]

Tried adding more fuel? What's the AFR where you're getting the knock?

[custardavenger]

13.4

[aaronjb]

I don't have the tuning laptop in front of me right now, but 13000 load is in the top third or so, isn't it? Working from memory here.. and nearly 6000rpm is getting pretty well on so you'll be at WOT pushing more or less full boost at that point?

If so, 13.5 is really pretty lean for a road engine - try 12.5:1 or richer (11.5:1 maximum, realistically) - 13.5:1 is 'lean best power' but you wouldn't tune a forced induction road car there, unless you enjoy replacing pistons.. (Sorry.. bad joke!)

Generally if you can't get rid of knock with spark retard then it's lack of fuel (OK, there are some other options - too rich with incredibly hot spots in the cylinder could do it, too).

Have you tried running with any kind of engine stethoscope (electronic or mechanical) to make sure it's 'real' knock and not a dickey knock sensor BTW? With knock of 100 you should be able to hear it - although at high rpm like that, it can be tricky when you're driving at the same time.

FWIW my tune hits a peak knock of 25 in the high load/high RPM cells under full boost (8psi), with ignition timings of 15-17deg, AFR of 10:1 (too rich, really, it's robbing power) and intake temps of 35-40C (from memory)

[Star_69]

Isnt a 100 silly high? I get audible knock spikes at 40 when its silly hot and pushing it and crap myself and back off. Can you hear it knocking or is it noise?

You've tried going richer? You've pulled timing, how about the VVT settings? What is the value on that cell? What's the boost level at that point? Is 13000 near the max load? I've read reducing the value to create overlap helps in supercharged applications as it blows boost out and helps in spots when theres too much. Check out posts on NC by 'GoatOfRafin' as he has documented this with graphical proof

[custardavenger]

Cheers Aaron. I'll have a go at making it richer, It's not quite full boost, probably 8psi.
Did try and make some DET cans but when I tried then I couldn't hear anything. Was going to look at plans on the interent to see if I had made them wrong or if there was a better place to put the pick up.

[custardavenger]

Ok searched. Gonna mod my det cans and find somewhere lower on the block to attach to.

[ChrisGB]

Unless things have changed a lot in the last few years, isn't 13.5:1 too lean for forced induction anyway? Sounds like a recipe for holed pistons to me. I would have thought aiming for 12.5:1 could be risky under boost.

Chris

[custardavenger]

Mostly it is running much richer than that. 9's 10's but was worried that that was way too rich. Seams the map is curently the wrong way round. It's rinning 11's at low rpm moving up to 12's.

If some one has a good map showing target AFR's that would be good for a guide. I just want to get a safe tune in so that once the other mods are in I can get a proper dyno map.

Cheers guys

[ChrisGB]

Mostly it is running much richer than that. 9's 10's but was worried that that was way too rich. Seams the map is curently the wrong way round. It's rinning 11's at low rpm moving up to 12's.

If some one has a good map showing target AFR's that would be good for a guide. I just want to get a safe tune in so that once the other mods are in I can get a proper dyno map.

Cheers guys

You want to stop those 9 / 10s as well. 9 is rich enough to wash the oil off the cylinder walls. How about a target 11.5:1 as a safe tune starting point for full throttle?

Chris