Headlight Removal and Refitting

[ManInDandism]

Having bagged a set of as new headlights for a song a few weeks back (I will update my Reader's Ride bit with the details), I got round to fitting them at the weekend.  As is noted just a few threads below, there is no 'How To' guide on here for this.  So these are details from my own experience.

The task was more straightforward than I had anticipated.  The bumper does not need to be removed but just requires slight loosening at the top.  The front wheels can be left on as well.  You need to get behind the wheel arch liner but it is sufficient to have the steering on full lock with the wheel right inside the arch on whichever side you are working.

In terms of time, I was slow and deliberate and it can be done in a leisurely 2 hours or so. 

Minimal tools are required – just a 10mm socket wrench with a small extension.  There are around 10 bolts and 2 nuts to remove depending on the approach taken and they are all this size.  The only other tool is a Phillips screwdriver to remove the frunk lid and something to prod the frunk trim clips out with.   

Once plastics are out of the way the next task is to remove the 4 bolts at the top of the bumper just in front of the radiator. Following this you need to prize the wheel arch liner away at the front.  No fixings to remove as it just sits behind the wing lip.  Right on the corner where the bumper meets the wing there is a bolt securing the two together.  This points directly upwards.  Once this is off, giving the bumper a slight tug outwards and downwards will separate it from where it clips into the wing and it is now loose enough for the job.

Each headlight is secured by 2 visible bolts at the top and by a nut that has to be undone by reaching through the wheel arch liner with socket wrench and extension. I removed the bolt securing the arch liner to the bottom of the bumper to improve access.  This nut lines up with the bottom corner of the headlight and points horizontally to the rear of the car.  You can feel for it or search it out with a torch before getting the socket onto it.

Once the 3 fastenings have been undone the headlight can be removed.  It has to be lifted slightly forwards as there is a plastic tab on the bottom which requires some clearance to separate it from the body of the car (and is the reason for needing to loosen the bumper).

The next task is to swap the bulb holders over from the old to the new unit before refitting the new headlight. It is best to first secure the bottom nut in the wheel arch as this pulls it nicely towards the corner of the car before doing up the two top bolts.

Finally, check that all the bulbs light up.  Then when you have secured the bumper, close the bonnet and check that everything is aligned.  If not, there is room for minor adjustment to the positioning by loosening the top bolts and maybe giving the corner nut an additional turn or two.

Also worth noting and something I am aware of first hand is that the plastic securing tabs are prone to breaking.  If bonding them back on does not prove effective Toyota do spares.  The part numbers are:

81193-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Upper RH
81194-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Upper LH
81195-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Lower RH
81196-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Lower LH

I have no idea on cost or continued availability but I did see a Technical Service Bulletin that made mention of them. There is a recessed screw hole underneath each tab which looks like it would be used to secure the replacement. 

[Lars]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm about to swap headlights too so this is very helpful.

How much more work do you reckon it is to remove the bumper entirely? I would like to clean the condenser and treat rust on the crash bar if there is any.
Do you perhaps have some tips on how to copy the pattern settings from the old units? I'm wondering if it makes sense to count the turns on the adjuster knobs on the old ones and get a setting that way...

[Joesson]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm about to swap headlights too so this is very helpful.

How much more work do you reckon it is to remove the bumper entirely? I would like to clean the condenser and treat rust on the crash bar if there is any.
Do you perhaps have some tips on how to copy the pattern settings from the old units? I'm wondering if it makes sense to count the turns on the adjuster knobs on the old ones and get a setting that way...

Not so much more work to remove the entire bumper. Using an old blanket, corrugated cardboard or similar on the ground, to prevent paint damage. There are additional fixings along the front edge and those under the wheel arches.
Before you remove the existing lights and assuming you are happy with their alignment I suggest you have a look at the attached link but instead of the measuring etc. mark the existing positions and then adjust the new lights to the same marks:
https://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights

[Rushy67]

t

Having bagged a set of as new headlights for a song a few weeks back (I will update my Reader's Ride bit with the details), I got round to fitting them at the weekend.  As is noted just a few threads below, there is no 'How To' guide on here for this.  So these are details from my own experience.

The task was more straightforward than I had anticipated.  The bumper does not need to be removed but just requires slight loosening at the top.  The front wheels can be left on as well.  You need to get behind the wheel arch liner but it is sufficient to have the steering on full lock with the wheel right inside the arch on whichever side you are working.

In terms of time, I was slow and deliberate and it can be done in a leisurely 2 hours or so. 

Minimal tools are required – just a 10mm socket wrench with a small extension.  There are around 10 bolts and 2 nuts to remove depending on the approach taken and they are all this size.  The only other tool is a Phillips screwdriver to remove the frunk lid and something to prod the frunk trim clips out with. 

Once plastics are out of the way the next task is to remove the 4 bolts at the top of the bumper just in front of the radiator. Following this you need to prize the wheel arch liner away at the front.  No fixings to remove as it just sits behind the wing lip.  Right on the corner where the bumper meets the wing there is a bolt securing the two together.  This points directly upwards.  Once this is off, giving the bumper a slight tug outwards and downwards will separate it from where it clips into the wing and it is now loose enough for the job.

Each headlight is secured by 2 visible bolts at the top and by a nut that has to be undone by reaching through the wheel arch liner with socket wrench and extension. I removed the bolt securing the arch liner to the bottom of the bumper to improve access.  This nut lines up with the bottom corner of the headlight and points horizontally to the rear of the car.  You can feel for it or search it out with a torch before getting the socket onto it.

Once the 3 fastenings have been undone the headlight can be removed.  It has to be lifted slightly forwards as there is a plastic tab on the bottom which requires some clearance to separate it from the body of the car (and is the reason for needing to loosen the bumper).

The next task is to swap the bulb holders over from the old to the new unit before refitting the new headlight. It is best to first secure the bottom nut in the wheel arch as this pulls it nicely towards the corner of the car before doing up the two top bolts.

Finally, check that all the bulbs light up.  Then when you have secured the bumper, close the bonnet and check that everything is aligned.  If not, there is room for minor adjustment to the positioning by loosening the top bolts and maybe giving the corner nut an additional turn or two.

Also worth noting and something I am aware of first hand is that the plastic securing tabs are prone to breaking.  If bonding them back on does not prove effective Toyota do spares.  The part numbers are:

81193-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Upper RH
81194-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Upper LH
81195-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Lower RH
81196-17010 - Retainer, Headlight Protector (Mounting Tab), Lower LH

I have no idea on cost or continued availability but I did see a Technical Service Bulletin that made mention of them. There is a recessed screw hole underneath each tab which looks like it would be used to secure the replacement. 





[/quote Thank you for this, makes it less daunting to a novice to attempt. I hope you dont mind but have copied and pasted your article. Even if my mechanic friend and I do this together your order of play will be invaluable.

[Bossworld]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm about to swap headlights too so this is very helpful.

How much more work do you reckon it is to remove the bumper entirely? I would like to clean the condenser and treat rust on the crash bar if there is any.
Do you perhaps have some tips on how to copy the pattern settings from the old units? I'm wondering if it makes sense to count the turns on the adjuster knobs on the old ones and get a setting that way...

Not much, but bear in mind you may need to drill and re-tap some of the bolts if they snap.

[ManInDandism]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm about to swap headlights too so this is very helpful.

How much more work do you reckon it is to remove the bumper entirely? I would like to clean the condenser and treat rust on the crash bar if there is any.
Do you perhaps have some tips on how to copy the pattern settings from the old units? I'm wondering if it makes sense to count the turns on the adjuster knobs on the old ones and get a setting that way...

Not much, but bear in mind you may need to drill and re-tap some of the bolts if they snap.

Do you need to detach the fog lights as well?  I didn't want to put myself through more work than was absolutely necessary!

As regards the settings - I just did a very cursory 'before' and 'after' check against the garage door.  I figured that the Toyota settings must be within the right range straight from the factory (and my ride height is stock).

There's a page in the workshop manual detailing how to correctly measure and adjust the headlight aim. I will probably verify the settings at some point prior to next UK-required annual inspection or MOT.

[Bossworld]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm about to swap headlights too so this is very helpful.

How much more work do you reckon it is to remove the bumper entirely? I would like to clean the condenser and treat rust on the crash bar if there is any.
Do you perhaps have some tips on how to copy the pattern settings from the old units? I'm wondering if it makes sense to count the turns on the adjuster knobs on the old ones and get a setting that way...

Not much, but bear in mind you may need to drill and re-tap some of the bolts if they snap.

Do you need to detach the fog lights as well?  I didn't want to put myself through more work than was absolutely necessary!

As regards the settings - I just did a very cursory 'before' and 'after' check against the garage door.  I figured that the Toyota settings must be within the right range straight from the factory (and my ride height is stock).

There's a page in the workshop manual detailing how to correctly measure and adjust the headlight aim. I will probably verify the settings at some point prior to next UK-required annual inspection or MOT.

You do need to unclip the fog connectors but you'll see once you've loosened the bumper. One cable is shorter than the other (think it's the passenger side from memory) which makes it a little tricky to access so it's worth having something to rest the bumper off the ground as you do it

[Paianni]

I've just done this for my 04-reg FL car and I have some further comments.

If one intends to keep the bumper on then I'd recommend protecting it with tape or similar where it meets the headlights. Otherwise, the tabs on the headlights will almost certainly mark up the paint while working them loose. I was hoping to remove my bumper for this, but while removing one of the two screws connecting the bumper to the left-hand-side wheel liner, the liner snapped around the bolt, I would have needed a very strong vice to hold what was left of the liner in place to remove the screw and finish the job. One screw sheared in two near the radiator and without a suitable drill+drill bit to remove it I've had to leave it in place.

Having a second person to assist with prying the metal extrusions (between the nut and the headlight) away from the headlights, and aligning the new headlights with the extrusions saved a lot of time and energy. Now that I'm familiar with the headlight units, I'm not looking forward to changing the dipped beam bulb when it fails, re-inserting the retainer clip was fiddly away from the car. I am looking forward to one less advisory on the next MOT.