Suggestions for sheared earth bolt please!

Topdownman · July 10, 2020, 18:32

I have been trying to check all my earths today and have sheared off a 10mm bolt in the front next to the servo unit.

It is one of two earths there (the top one, I havent dared have a go at the bottom one but suspect that will be as hard to remove) bolted on to the bodywork which seems to have a tang of some sort that goes through a hole in the bodywork and is then bolted down.

Heres a close up.

Very limited access so cant drill out the remains so looking for suggestions if anyone has any.

Does anyone know what the earths are for? I took off a similar one in the engine bay to clean that up and that bolt was very stiff too. Are they for the lights maybe?

Any reason why I cant earth this somewhere else? Maybe by extending the wire?

Any reason why I couldnt remove the tang and try bolting it onto the earth below? I am not sure why they are separate but right next to each other?

Any help appreciated!

Carolyn · July 10, 2020, 20:20

Quote from: Topdownman on July 10, 2020, 18:32I have been trying to check all my earths today and have sheared off a 10mm bolt in the front next to the servo unit.

It is one of two earths there (the top one, I havent dared have a go at the bottom one but suspect that will be as hard to remove) bolted on to the bodywork which seems to have a tang of some sort that goes through a hole in the bodywork and is then bolted down.

Heres a close up.

Very limited access so cant drill out the remains so looking for suggestions if anyone has any.

Does anyone know what the earths are for? I took off a similar one in the engine bay to clean that up and that bolt was very stiff too. Are they for the lights maybe?

Any reason why I cant earth this somewhere else? Maybe by extending the wire?

Any reason why I couldnt remove the tang and try bolting it onto the earth below? I am not sure why they are separate but right next to each other?

Any help appreciated!

Any good connection to the metal of the chassis will serve. As you suggested, you can extend the wire to a point where a fastening provides the opportunity to make an earth connection.

I worry a little that the earth bolt right next to it will shear as well! If it doesn't - then that'll do too!

Topdownman · July 10, 2020, 21:56

[quote author=Carolyn link=msg=828229 date=1594408

Any good connection to the metal of the chassis will serve. As you suggested, you can extend the wire to a point where a fastening provides the opportunity to make an earth connection.

I worry a little that the earth bolt right next to it will shear as well! If it doesn't - then that'll do too!
[/quote]

Thanks Carolyn. I may as well try to get the second bolt out tomorrow, the contacts are really poor condition and could do with cleaning so nothing to lose if I snap the second one too but if I can get it out then putting them both together will be the most "elegant" solution and if that snaps too, then I will just have to make a new earth for both.

scm2004red · July 10, 2020, 22:46

Does the bolt do through into the wheel arch area, possibly a captive nut? May be easier to drill out from the back, plus put some release agent on the other bolt.?

Zxrob · July 11, 2020, 00:16

Spiral socket will get that out, very useful tools

https://www.bing.com/shop?q=spiral+socket+set&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=537846A1F6BC4103845003DADB85B4DE

Rob

Topdownman · July 11, 2020, 07:38

Quote from: scm2004red on July 10, 2020, 22:46Does the bolt do through into the wheel arch area, possibly a captive nut? May be easier to drill out from the back, plus put some release agent on the other bolt.?

I think there must be a captive nut but it is behind the top of the shock (and presumably arch liner) so not accessible unfortunately.

I was spraying GT85 on it as I went but will try plusgas on the second.

Topdownman · July 11, 2020, 07:46

Quote from: Zxrob on July 11, 2020, 00:16Spiral socket will get that out, very useful tools

https://www.bing.com/shop?q=spiral+socket+set&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=537846A1F6BC4103845003DADB85B4DE

Rob

I dont think there is anything for that to grip on as there is barely 1mm? of the bolt shaft showing.

By the look of them, they look to be aimed at rounded off heads etc rather than the stub as they all look quite large.

Call the midlife! · July 11, 2020, 07:55

Can you get in at it with the Dremmel with a cutting disc on? Maybe cut across the flange with the tag on and see if you can wind it out with what's left of the terminal as that looks fused to it anyway.

scm2004red · July 11, 2020, 08:44

Have to admit that my inclination would be to remove the arch liner ( and I admit to not having done it myself on one of these, but can't be too difficult surely) if the bolts go through to captive nuts on the wheel arch side, you at least can apply release agent on that side where it will do more good for removing the lower bolt, and might possibly have enough of the top one protruding to grip it and wind it through.

Fair amount of supposition there as I have no idea what it looks like under the wheel arch of these, but someone must have been under there at some time?

Carolyn · July 11, 2020, 09:15

Removing the liner is not difficult, if a little tedious. I suspect one might also need to drop the strut to give clearance to work on the bolt.

That's two hefty bundles of earth wires so any extension wire should be capable of carrying quite high current. I can see (after taking a good close look at the photos) why they are split into two as they are very bulky.

These M6 chassis bolts are all over the car and they do tend to shear off with great regularity. When I can get access, I drill and re-tap. In many places (like plastics attachments, I might just settle for a tie-wrap, but in others (earths especially) only a bolt will do the job.

We're all different in terms of the compromises we are prepared to make. Originality obsessives (not a criticism) will be removing the liner and dropping the shock, those less fussy might go for the extension wire solution.

Topdownman · July 11, 2020, 09:20

Thanks for all the suggestions, they really do help to make me think about things. Just looking at the picture again has made me wonder if the existing tab and wiring would stretch to reach one of the nuts for the suspension top mounts.

I dont have a dremel but given how stiff the nut was before it sheared, I cant imagine the stub is coming out without drilling. I couldnt even get my 1/2" drive socket on the bolt due to the servo being so close so was using a ratchet spanner.

The captive nut is very high up in the wheel arch so the shock would probably need to come off for access which is not something I want to do at the moment as trying to get the car ready for the 2's on Tour trip on thursday so definitely thinking bodge right now!

@Carolyn , just read your post while typing this, do you think putting them onto one connection may be the wrong thing to do? I could just leave the second alone and re-position the broken one somewhere else?

Carolyn · July 11, 2020, 09:34

Quote from: Topdownman on July 11, 2020, 09:20Thanks for all the suggestions, they really do help to make me think about things. Just looking at the picture again has made me wonder if the existing tab and wiring would stretch to reach one of the nuts for the suspension top mounts.

I dont have a dremel but given how stiff the nut was before it sheared, I cant imagine the stub is coming out without drilling. I couldnt even get my 1/2" drive socket on the bolt due to the servo being so close so was using a ratchet spanner.

The captive nut is very high up in the wheel arch so the shock would probably need to come off for access which is not something I want to do at the moment as trying to get the car ready for the 2's on Tour trip on thursday so definitely thinking bodge right now!

@Carolyn , just read your post while typing this, do you think putting them onto one connection may be the wrong thing to do? I could just leave the second alone and re-position the broken one somewhere else?

I'm all for creative bodging! If I were in your shoes, I'd leave the other earth alone. I'd crimp round connectors to an extension wire, bolt that wire to the loose connecting tab, using M6 nut and bolt, and find another spot for the other end.

scm2004red · July 11, 2020, 13:34

If you aren't, or don't have the time, to do the job properly, use a bit of flat steel strip 10/12mm wide x 2 or so mm thick drilled one end to attach to the top mount bolt and bent and drilled the other end to take a 10mm bolt for the existing earth from the broken bolt, of a length to take the end back down to near where the other earth bolt is. Saves lengthening wires and adding possibly dodgy connections.

If you have doubts about the second bolted earth, drill 2 holes in the strap to take both earth leads.

Topdownman · July 12, 2020, 07:04

Bodge done.

I havent had time to see if everything is working on the car yet but once the clip was unhooked from the there is hole there so I thought I would have a look under the wheel arch to see if that helped to show where they were situated and lo and behold, there they were, no liner in the way and to the left of the shock!

m1tch · July 16, 2020, 15:41

Another option could be to use Rivnuts/nutserts and drill a small hole elsewhere in that area - basically a threaded pop rivet. Not needed to use my tool as of yet but probably will when I start looking to fit brackets for other items in the future - just an idea.