Engine starting,heatin+more

[gecutu]

Hello guys, I have some problems with my 02' mr-s jspec, first of all I'm from Romania, and I'm the only one here with this car and maybe about 10 mr2 uk/eu,That's the main reason I can't get help from mechanics, not even my local dealer. First, my engine is overheating in 1 min or let's say 5,all goes up to 120 degrees. I wanted to delete my heating core and put my lines in a loop, after that everything went wrong. I visited a mechanic and told him what I've done, from his point of view nothing was wrong, and put me to change thermostat, water pump, anyway nothing worked. And now the 2nd problem where dealership told me to buy another car:)): engine is hesitating when accelerating in all gears, hard to tell what errors throw ecu because nobody could read it, some said it's because of the ecu but I've changed 3, two from europe and one ordered from japan. After some reasearch I know it's not the ecu just to change the protocol from diagnosis tools, a bosch could do that but no error on the engine. I've changed everything from sparkplugs to fuel pump. Nothing changed but I've got a 3rd problem after the fuel pump changed, my engine starts hard something went wrong again. I'm looking now for a fuel pump assembly maybe something it's broken inside, now the question is I can put an assembly from Celica?I looked on some schemes and I saw they have the same code 77024-17010(this is for the plate sub assembly, because I saw there are two types with one and two jacks). Anyway any new idea to try is welcomed because I have some problems with the police too and I need to repair my car quick because it's in front of my house and I don't have a garage so they want to fine me because I didn't start/run/moved the car for over an year.

[thetyrant]

First you need to stop it overheating as its most likley causing or at least contributing to the running issues,  bledding/burping the coolant system which can be tricky on these cars as i found myself and can take some time to get al air out, this is of course presuming the water pump/thermostat etc are all working as they should did you get those changed ?

[Gaz mr-s]

If it's getting very hot very quickly, is the thermostat working?  Was it tested  before fitting it?

[gecutu]

Yes the thermostat was tested before, anyway the overheating problem appeared only after the heater core was deleted.

[SV-3]

Yes the thermostat was tested before, anyway the overheating problem appeared only after the heater core was deleted.

Why did you remove the heater core?

[Carolyn]

The flow through the heater is required to feed heat to the back of the thermostat.  If you need to take the heater out of the system (the only reason I could think of for that is if the core is leaking). You need to connect together both rubber hoses to and from the heater with a length of pipe.

Then the thermostat can open. 

That heater circuit is essential for the engine to cool.

[thetyrant]

Yes the thermostat was tested before, anyway the overheating problem appeared only after the heater core was deleted.

As mentioned above the heater circuit is essential and these cars and actually under normally running only needs this to cool the engine and hardly uses the main radiator in my experience until car slows down in town etc, if you have joined the pipes from heater to just bypass the core rather than blocking them that is ok as long as you got all the air out of system and coolant can still complete the circuit back to engine, which it sounds like you havent if this is case and either air of blockage in loop,  however if you blocked them off then there is your problem as Carolyn says it will prevent thermostat opening and make a big reduction in overall cooling efficiency.

[gecutu]

My car was RHD, my local Toyota dealership moved the steering wheel on the left side, but the previous owner didn't had all the parts. So my core was glued with silicone, and the part from middle was missing so the heater assembly was a bad puzzle. You can guess, I didn't had any heat in the car, and the heater wouldn't fit the new position. First I tried to find a new assembly without success, btw no A/C too because other parts where missing so it was useless. For me it's ok, I used it as a summer car, and drag race. I will go outside to take a photo to be sure if I understand correctly what I'll need to connect(they are connected but that pipe is a hose garden). Now do you have any idea for the other problem with engine hassitating and bad start.

[thetyrant]

I wouldnt use garden hose to join them as coolant is 90-100c under normal use and hose will not be good enough, try and get some proper radiator/coolent piping to make the join, it could be the hose you use is causing blockage.

[shnazzle]

I wouldnt use garden hose to join them as coolant is 90-100c under normal use and hose will not be good enough, try and get some proper radiator/coolent piping to make the join, it could be the hose you use is causing blockage.

Spot on. Garden hose will go floppy and likely pop off or even burst. It's not suitable.

[gecutu]

I tried to find a silicone one but without success so I adapt and improvise. Apparently the problem isn't there, hot coolant doesn't come in the front at the radiator, all my coolant from engine is returned in the coolant tank, where is evaporated.

[thetyrant]

First up You need a better pipe for that loop it is no good, have you tried to bleed the air out from that bleed point?.

[gecutu]

First up You need a better pipe for that loop it is no good, have you tried to bleed the air out from that bleed point?.

Yes, I've tried to bleed the air but nothing happened. Tommorow I will try to find another pipe, but it's hard right now with that coronavirus, everything is closed. Anyway I will change the radiator too because I think is the original one.

[gecutu]

After a month I'm coming back to you with some updates but same problems. I've solved the loop hose problem and today I decided to start the car again to see if something has changed. In less than 5 mins on idle because I can't drive right now the car, the engine temperature was at 90 degrees. Thermostat is new same the water pump as i said, radiator was cleaned, on the short circuit the one with the heater loop If i open the bleed point at maximum I can see only few drops of coolant. When I press the radiator hoses are cold and seems nothing circulate through them, so I'm thinking the circuit is blocked. At this point I'm blocked and it's hard to find someone that can solve my problem, because it's a lot of work and they prefer to change some brakes, oil and maybe a clutch. So, can I test the circuit somehow? Or maybe you have other ideas.

[pauls0212]

if you open up the white bleed screw water should come out, toyota give you some pipe to put upwards and if i remember rightly my water came up about a foot from the valve. If you open it up and no water there then either a blockage or no water in system.

[thetyrant]

Sounds like you still have an airlock between engine and heater pipe they can be real stubborn pain in the ass!, i would drain all the coolant out and start again slowly filling and bleeding as you go, i guess once coolant is out before filling you could try getting someone to blow in the heater loop from engine side after taking it off pipe from back side of head and and see if you get anything out under the bonnet bleed screw.

[shnazzle]

I don't know if it's correct but I've been reasonably successful bleeding by running the heater on full hot and full power, running the engine, and slowly opening the bleed valve on the radiator until coolant comes out. I've had it really bad where it took a good 10 seconds of hissing before liquid came out.

[jonbill]

overheating at idle in 5 mins is very quick. When @jvanzyl car had no coolant circulation, it wouldn't overheat at idle. had to be out on the road to get it above normal temp.
so: might br worth checking with some other temp measuring data device that its actually as hot as the gauge says.

[gecutu]

@thetyrant, that's what I was thinking to do today, I will try to flush the pipes first, then to do what you said with 2nd person to blow.

@jonbill I have a lot of coolant, and the temp gauge is good because, coolant starts to evaporate after coolant goes over 120 degrees.

[thetyrant]

You have replaced that garden hose pipe i hope ?

[gecutu]

Yes, I've waited 2 weeks for a custom one:D.

Ok so I'm back with an update: flushed the pipes, flushed everything, blow the pipes, but wasn't clogged at all, so I've turned on the engine and waited, temperature goes on idle around 87-89 degrees very quick, all the hoses are cold, and doesn't seem to be underpressure. I've filled up the coolant tank with around 1 litre of coolant or something like that, and let the car run. What I've noticed is the engine doesn't drain the coolant from tank. I can't check if the water pump is working but it's a new one, the mechanic said the old one was in good condition but I had the same problem.

[pauls0212]

are you getting water at the white screw, if you take it out does water flow out???

[Carolyn]

You have a blockage in the steel pipe and plumbing that goes from the left-hand side of the head down to the back of the thermostat.  The engine itself is not filling properly.  The fill circuit goes from the expansion tank, via a hose to that steel pipe, and down to the bottom of the engine, behind the thermostat.

I've been through this very issue before.

[gecutu]

@pauls0212 yes, but it doesn't flow like you said.
@Carolyn Ok so the red one is blocked, now I can flush that pipe alone?Or I need to visit a mechanic, because I don't have a garage so I work in front of my house on the alley. I should do the same operation like the rest of the circuit?With underpressure water and some flush liquid?

[Carolyn]

@pauls0212 yes, but it doesn't flow like you said.
@Carolyn Ok so the red one is blocked, now I can flush that pipe alone?Or I need to visit a mechanic, because I don't have a garage so I work in front of my house on the alley. I should do the same operation like the rest of the circuit?With underpressure water and some flush liquid?

Yes, it's almost certainly the red one. Problem is, you don't know what's in there.  You could make things worse by applying pressure. I would disconnect from both ends and suck with a strong vacuum.  Probably time for a mechanic.  A good one.

The one I dealt with had a bit of plastic in it and it came out with the application of a wet/dry shop vac.