BC Racing BR Series Coilovers advice - how low can ride height go?

[swiftyds]

I've pretty much decided to fit these to my 2006 Roadster which is still on standard shocks and springs.

I'm actually using the MR2 as the base for an RS200 replica (see build thread here....http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6190&page=7) and as you'll see from the picture below it's sitting pretty high and needs to be lowered a good 50mm

I've spoken to the nice folks at Kam Racing who have been very helpful, but I'm struggling to confirm that I can get somewhere between 50mm and 70mm ride height reduction front and back. I'm sure 50mm will make it look better and still be usable given the front bumper is higher than the standard MR2 item, but I may need to go an additional 20mm above this.

From what I can find on official spec they lower around 26mm (1 inch) as standard compared to standard MR2 springs, and then I should be able to get a further 50mm using ride height adjustment on the Coilover itself.

Does anyone have these fitted already who could help me out with confirming my numbers here before I place an order with Kam?

Many thanks

[Call the midlife!]

I can't speak for BCs as I'm on Meisters but your question is a bit open ended really, wheel and tyre size will have as much of an influence on how low you can go before they start rubbing on the arches.
It might help you to get the answers if you list these dimensions as well.
More often than not you'll run out of travel between the spring seats and locking collars and that will govern the limit of your set up.
How much weight over a standard 2 are you adding with the kit, or losing? That's going to affect the arch gaps too.


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[swiftyds]

Good point - I should also have said I've fitted 20mm spacers all round and the wheels have an offset of ET20 so in effect 40mm further out when considering clearances for the inner face of the wheel/tyre compared to standard.

I've measure already the clearances and there is a good 50mm at the front and 65mm at the rear to the current standard springs/shocks from the inner face of the wheel/tyre.

Wheels are 17 inch all round (Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2). Tyres are 205/40/17 front and 215/40/17 rear.

There's plenty to drop before I hit the arches of the kit panels themselves as you'll see from the picture.

The kit weight is approx the same as the MR2 panels removed. It has standard MR2 hardtop underneath and the weight of the kit is slightly biased to the rear - the rear clam is probably 5% heavier than the MR2 panels and the front 5% lighter if that makes sense.

Many thanks

[1979scotte]

I would think 60mm is possible.
The meister r come set 30mm lower roughly than stock.
When I bought my yellow 2 they were set maybe 20mm lower than that and still had room for more.
BC are similar.
How slammed are the MR2 championship cars as they use BC.

[swiftyds]

Thanks - very helpful.

I forgot the championship cars use BCs

[tricky1138]

I know @Wabbitkilla car was very low on BC's. Not sure how low.

Hopefully he'll come along soon and say.

[Nvy]

Also read on bump steer if you are going to lower it that much.

[BahnStormer]

Thanks - very helpful.

I forgot the championship cars use BCs

I doubt that pro race cars would use BR Series: there are three series above the BR (RM, ER and V1) offering inverted setup, onboard adjustable, etc ...

How drive-able does it need to be (regular roads / track only)?

When I got my BR Series (RA / 4kg/6kg), I left mine on the stock height settings, which must be a good 30-40mm lower than stock and I wouldn't advise going any lower as I already have to crawl over all speedbumps otherwise it catches... I can get some photo's, so you can see the stance + measure up where mine are, in case the stock settings aren't all the same. I think I still have room to go another 30-40mm lower on the cuffs, but I doubt that I'd be able to as the car would be on the floor by then!! I already struggle to get even a low-riser trolley jack under mine without putting the wheels onto low ramps first!

[dan944]

Thanks - very helpful.

I forgot the championship cars use BCs

I doubt that pro race cars would use BR Series: there are three series above the BR (RM, ER and V1) offering inverted setup, onboard adjustable, etc ...

How drive-able does it need to be (regular roads / track only)?

When I got my BR Series (RA / 4kg/6kg), I left mine on the stock height settings, which must be a good 30-40mm lower than stock and I wouldn't advise going any lower as I already have to crawl over all speedbumps otherwise it catches... I can get some photo's, so you can see the stance + measure up where mine are, in case the stock settings aren't all the same. I think I still have room to go another 30-40mm lower on the cuffs, but I doubt that I'd be able to as the car would be on the floor by then!! I already struggle to get even a low-riser trolley jack under mine without putting the wheels onto low ramps first!

I think he mentioned his kit is higher than a stock mr2 though. And 17" wheels will give a tad more space.

I've seen some stuff on the mr2oc forum of mk2s being dropped 70mm. Not sure how that translates to the mk3

[swiftyds]

Thanks for the replies. If you could get me some photos and measurements that would be great. Particularly height from ground to your sills.

The kit is higher at front and back bumpers than stock MR2 although I need to watch underside of car/engine area still.

[BahnStormer]

Here's mine on the "stock" BC Racing height... and a picture of the coilies in the box - looks like there's another 40mm-50mm drop available still...

[BahnStormer]

Particularly height from ground to your sills.

I'll go and grab a ruler out the stationary cupboard and see if I can get some photo's later.

[swiftyds]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

[Nvy]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

If you are doing some hard cornering and stuff id look into bump steering. I wrote it before but for some reason im getting ignored on anything i write in any thread coz ppl are focused on their thing but do yourself a favor and read about it. Im not sure if these cars will develop it but it should be present on any lowered car.

[Call the midlife!]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

If you are doing some hard cornering and stuff id look into bump steering. I wrote it before but for some reason im getting ignored on anything i write in any thread coz ppl are focused on their thing but do yourself a favor and read about it. Im not sure if these cars will develop it but it should be present on any lowered car.

I googled it the first time you mentioned it, got lost in the mechanics of it and gave up, then went back to work and forgot all about it. Sorry if you're feeling ignored, I'd like to think any input on threads is valued, just sometimes people only have time for a passing look.


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[Call the midlife!]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

Just bear in mind the effect of weight at different parts of the car, unless you're going to the trouble of corner weighting it once you've finished. One of the limiting factors for me in trying to get even arch gaps was the difference in weight on each corner, I think I've only got something like 10-15mm of travel left on one of the front struts.
Consider putting some deadweight in the seats when you're setting them up too.


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[swiftyds]

I'm looking at bump steer as we speak! Thanks for heads up

[BahnStormer]

Particularly height from ground to your sills.

I'll go and grab a ruler out the stationary cupboard and see if I can get some photo's later.

okay - so it looks like mine has around 3-3.5cm further drop possible on the rear, based purely on the cuffs... and that phot was only possible as I could reach in from the back - no way I'm getting in the same way for the front - there's 20mm arch gap at most - so although fingers are possible, there's no way I'm getting any camera/phone in there!!

[BahnStormer]

rear clearance: this was taken on the front edge of the RHS rear wheel. It looked like the sills were roughly level with the LOWER edge of that plastic guard.... so I'd say ~12cm.

[BahnStormer]

front clearance: taken on the rear edge of the RHS front wheel. Sorry, I didn't get the camera low enough to show the sill or even the little mudguard lip. Best guess would be 10-11cm clearance below the sills.

[swiftyds]

Cheers BahnStormer - the measurements are spot on

[james_ly]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

If you are doing some hard cornering and stuff id look into bump steering. I wrote it before but for some reason im getting ignored on anything i write in any thread coz ppl are focused on their thing but do yourself a favor and read about it. Im not sure if these cars will develop it but it should be present on any lowered car.

I'd be interested to know if it affects the MR2. I experienced it when lowering my old VX220. Basically what happens is as the wheel goes up in travel, it starts to toe out, and down in travel it toes in. So say you are going round a left hand bend, the right wheel starts to toe out and left to toe in. Which lessens the steering effect and you get understeer. Also makes teh steering fighty over bumps because the toe change is more aggresive when lowered. The fix was to raise the steering rack to keep it all in alignment.

[steveash]

That's great - looks like I shouldn't have a problem as long as I don't end up scraping along the road.

Cheers

If you are doing some hard cornering and stuff id look into bump steering. I wrote it before but for some reason im getting ignored on anything i write in any thread coz ppl are focused on their thing but do yourself a favor and read about it. Im not sure if these cars will develop it but it should be present on any lowered car.

I'd be interested to know if it affects the MR2. I experienced it when lowering my old VX220. Basically what happens is as the wheel goes up in travel, it starts to toe out, and down in travel it toes in. So say you are going round a left hand bend, the right wheel starts to toe out and left to toe in. Which lessens the steering effect and you get understeer. Also makes teh steering fighty over bumps because the toe change is more aggresive when lowered. The fix was to raise the steering rack to keep it all in alignment.

There are several positive reports within this site of roll centre ball joints curing this problem. I think they are made by Hard Race.

[shnazzle]

Roll-centre adjustment
And it's definitely a "thing".
A thing most of us ignore

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[Essex2Visuvesi]

You also want to look at adjustable ARB drop links as well