OEM bracing - structural vs performance

Started by m1tch, July 10, 2017, 13:24

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m1tch

July 10, 2017, 13:24 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hi all,

Currently looking at other parts of the car I can remove for weight reduction for drag racing - note that all bracing would be kept on for any track work, there aren't any corners on the 1/4 mile!

Can anyone tell me which braces I am able to remove as they are performance related vs those that are structural to the car's integrity, example being that I know that my FL car has additional bracing that the PFL car doesn't have so I know I can temporarily remove these. But I am more thinking about other braces under the car - I can see a front brace near the frunk and there is also the engine bay X brace and the bar between the seatbelt brackets - I am guessing those are required as they are part of the structure of the car?

Just seeing what I can and cannot remove temporarily from the car when I do want to drop to a drag racing weight.

1979scotte

#1
July 10, 2017, 20:11 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
The rear cross braces are removed from some V6 swaps but I wouldn't want to throw them in the bin.
Also pfl does have front underbraces 2 bars unlike the FL which is an H shape sort of.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

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m1tch

#2
July 10, 2017, 20:54 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "1979scotte"The rear cross braces are removed from some V6 swaps but I wouldn't want to throw them in the bin.
Also pfl does have front underbraces 2 bars unlike the FL which is an H shape sort of.

Yeah i'm not going to be throwing them, more like temporarily removing them for a reduction of weight for straightline, but fitting them back on right after - just need to work out what I can and can't remove from the car!

JoeCool

#3
July 11, 2017, 17:12 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Personally I think the standard rear upper bracing does naff all, but also it's so light it's not really worth removing. I wouldn't be removing any of the stock underbracing without replacing it with something better. A cusco style front under brace is very light and way more rigid than the two single point fixing bars it replaces.
2ZZ '02 Roadster

1979scotte

#4
July 11, 2017, 17:42 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "JoeCool"A cusco style front under brace is very light and way more rigid than the two single point fixing bars it replaces.

Dont forget the FL version is far superior.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

m1tch

#5
July 12, 2017, 07:41 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "JoeCool"A cusco style front under brace is very light and way more rigid than the two single point fixing bars it replaces.

Dont forget the FL version is far superior.

Just looking through the frunk area (there isn't anything there anymore!) I can see that there is a cross brace of some sort, needs a bit of attention as its got flaking paint, will look to remove this to clean it up anyway and see how much it weighs.

maybeturbo

#6
July 16, 2017, 22:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Gut out the doors would probably be easier and more effective plus all easily reversible. So 2x glass, motors, speakers, door cards. Gotta come to a fair few kg's. It's cheating though!

m1tch

#7
July 18, 2017, 06:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "maybeturbo"Gut out the doors would probably be easier and more effective plus all easily reversible. So 2x glass, motors, speakers, door cards. Gotta come to a fair few kg's. It's cheating though!

Speakers and tweeters are out already, will probably pull the lock actuators out as well.

weeJohn

#8
July 19, 2017, 22:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Keep them all in, you want a stiff chassis for best launching.

You will get the most gains and better times from the right tyres and a good launch technique, 0.1secs off your 0-60ft time usually means about 0.3secs off your ET, so practice your burn outs before you go. "GRIP" works well on road tyres if you put it on 2 or 3 days before, available off Ebay.

m1tch

#9
July 20, 2017, 07:47 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "weeJohn"Keep them all in, you want a stiff chassis for best launching.

You will get the most gains and better times from the right tyres and a good launch technique, 0.1secs off your 0-60ft time usually means about 0.3secs off your ET, so practice your burn outs before you go. "GRIP" works well on road tyres if you put it on 2 or 3 days before, available off Ebay.

Thanks for that, I think I might keep them in as I have already removed almost 62kg from the car since the first run, think I am getting to the point of diminishing returns with weight reduction.
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