Things to do whilst doing a 2ZZ conversion

Started by brettfield999, July 16, 2016, 19:41

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brettfield999

Hi there I am (hopefully) in the final stages before going ahead with a 2ZZ swap.  Just waiting on a car coming through.

I know about the mandatory swap parts such as the engine bracket and dipstick etc and i'm planning on replacing the lift bolts and thermostat to a TRD one as I believe it is difficult to access whilst in the 2.  I know how long is a piece of string but is there anything that anyone would recommend doing whilst the engine is out and accessible?  Whether service parts or upgrades.

I've thought about the MWR underdrive pulleys and belt as it seems like an easy win but i don't know know if anyone has ever used them and if they saw a benefit.

Thanks in advance
[strike]2000 Blue PFL MR2 Roadster with 187K, engine blown[/strike]<br />[strike]2000 Blue MRS, 80K[/strike]<br />[strike]2001 Blue PFL MR2 Roadster 131K, 2ZZ,[/strike]<br />[strike]2003 Silver FL MR2 Roadster with 81K now daily driver, 2ZZ by Headcase[/strike]

secla

#1
A fresh clutch is always a good idea whilst the engine is out

brettfield999

#2
Quote from: "secla"A fresh clutch is always a good idea whilst the engine is out

Thanks, I think i will opt for a new clutch and flywheel if possible and the LSD transferred

By the way my car is a 2003 FL with 6 speed manual, I'm not looking to use it on the track so I dont need to go OTT I just want a faster road car
[strike]2000 Blue PFL MR2 Roadster with 187K, engine blown[/strike]<br />[strike]2000 Blue MRS, 80K[/strike]<br />[strike]2001 Blue PFL MR2 Roadster 131K, 2ZZ,[/strike]<br />[strike]2003 Silver FL MR2 Roadster with 81K now daily driver, 2ZZ by Headcase[/strike]

cabbydave

#3
New cam chain and new oil pump I would say

JoeCool

#4
Hand brake cables whilst the bay is empty. Only £50 the pair and the source of.so much woe.
2ZZ '02 Roadster

alancsalt

#5
The knock sensor under the inlet manifold - if you have to change it, do it before the engine goes in. Generally you'll need a single wire knock sensor - either your 1ZZ knock sensor or a single wire 2zz knock sensor. (They changed during production.)
Toyota MR2 Spyder, November 2002, Engineer approved 2001 Celica 2ZZ motor and C60 trans, MWR Carbon lined synchro set, SMT to Manual conversion, PPE headers,Fabricated Cat/Exhaust, Power FC ECU

frootloops

#6
I'd take out and clean both ocv filters if you weren't already planning to, one is easily accessible once the conversion is done but the other is against the bulkhead. Also check the engine for leaks and replace the necessary seals, we had to change the timing chain cover seal after my conversion because the universal sealant i used wasn't up to the task, I'd recommend getting a genuine seal from toyota for this as its a pig of a job to do after the swap.

jvanzyl

#7
Maybe get a lightened flywheel while you're at it? Looking back on when I did my clutch I wish I had just spent the extra and got it...

JoeCool

#8
Yeah, I got the fidanza one on sale. Still pricey but absolutely the best thing I did. Lovely to drive, great driveability but really gives the engine zing.
2ZZ '02 Roadster

mikek

#9
+1
I put the competition clutches lightened flywheel in mine.
2zz by Rogue. Se7en cams. BMC CDA. Competion clutches lightened flywheel, Megillian Racing Exhaust. TRD sportivo suspension and ARB\'s. TRD braces. TRD quick shift. TRD dash kit, Matts brace. Getting there but not sure when it will stop!

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